Aberdeenshire

Cycling Scotland #5. Portsoy to Inverness

Inverness is either starting point, or destination, or milestone for any traveller in Scotland – driving, cycling, and hiking.  

For me it was the point of frustration as I learned that the main cycling traffic went different way and it was a kind of a honour to make it from Lands End in Cornwall to John o”Groats in Scotland, the UK from one end to another.  Then I calmed down – there was no exact cycling route from one point to another, and for me either way is the navigation challenge I hate. So do my devices.

Banff, the Royal Burgh

Banff

Banff

The history of Banff refers to XII century and Vikings. It’s a small very pretty and cosy town, which I would rather call a village, if no Royal Burgh status, conferred it by King Robert II in XIV century. I passed it in the morning, regretting it wasn’t time for overnight stop. Their tiny community museum/workshop was closed either because it was too early or just because.

Cullen Skink

Aberdeenshire

Aberdeenshire

Cullen Skink is a traditional soup, made from smoked haddock, milk, potato, and onion. Brr.. Anyway, the town was known for it. Railway bridges are not really railway anymore, but bring a lot of colour to the landscape. Here you see the first sign about Inverness, still many miles ahead.

The Green Castle

The Green Castle

The Green Castle

It’s not a real castle, it just a naturally defended rocky outcrop. The divers were jumping into the water, as, I believe, a lot to see under. This time rain caught me in a big Tesco, on the second floor’s caffe of which I felt asleep, once a night time came, caffe had closed, bit rain didn’t stop. After a short conversation the security left me alone. Probably because I was noticed entering lady’s with tooth past, brush, and perfumed wipes. Probably because I was a University teacher. Probably because I was a traveling journalist. Russian from South Africa. Anyway next day all staff greeted me with deserved “good morning”.

Wigwam Holidays

Wigwam Holidays

Wigwam Holidays

It’s another particular place I wished I passed at night to stop there, so cool it looked. And a lot of space and trees for tenting. All day it was going to rain, and it did. For cycling in the rain I was reworded very dramatical views which are below on a bunch of photos. When it started raining heavier, I tried to find some shelter like a barn. The owners of the property started talking to me, and step by step, word by word, I was invited to stay in their spare bedroom. The elderly couple were intelligent and knowledgeable people, interested in different aspects, and out evening tea lasted till the early morning.

Culloden Viaduct

Culloden Viaduct. Nairn and Forres

Culloden Viaduct. Nairn and Forres

Just a bridge. The greatest non-metal railway bridge I’ve ever seen. I spent about an hour, staying under and around. Photogenic as well, so, again, there is a bunch of photos below.

Inverness

Hotel. I thought it was a castle-museum.

Inverness. Scotland’s cross roads.

Inverness

Inverness

It’s a good idea to stop in a hostel (there is one right on the High Street) for a night. You will learn a lot what, where, and how other travellers are doing. That where many cycling roads are crossing, and I figure out about special crossing UK from Lands End to John o’Groats. But, again, there are no map on the web. For me, what is not on the web, doesn’t exist. But what really existed, was dramatic views with low clouds and rain, was going to start any second.

Inverness

Inverness

Lena Faber used to work as a journalist at a mainstream Russian newspaper, wrote books for a major publishing house, and directed her original concept on TV. In 2009, she moved to South Africa, taught at the university, took up running, and earned a silver medal at the World Masters Athletic Championship in California and, in the meantime, won an international photo contest with following up solo exhibition. In 2014 she "shut the door" and gone hiking the Appalachian Trail, cycling from Chicago to LA (US Route 66), from Maine to Florida, from London to Orkney, etc. Now in MidCoast, Maine.